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Midsummer is the biggest holiday of the year in Latvia. Noone sleeps before the sun comes up, and the evening is spent singing, dancing, eating, drinking, singing some more, making bonfires, bonfire rafts, bonfires on poles, bonfires rolling down hills, staying awake, waiting for dawn.

This is just before dawn when we decided to go to Doles rock to see the rising sun. 5 or 6 of us went running through dew wet meadows, across ditches, up hills only to find a herd of cattle jealously guarding the rock a few minutes before sunrise. One brave country boy got the herd to follow him into the next meadow as we dashed around them to climb on the rock. You had to be there, it was exhilarating and magical.

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